ExplorewithFelixEse: Akwuke Beach: The Fulani Settlement

Akwuke Beach: the Fulani settlement

The locals spoke of two Fulani settlements that nestled atop the two sandy hills parted by the swift Iyama River. So we decided to see for ourselves. The hot sand scorched our feet badly that we were forced to put on back our shoes. Some group of persons who came for picnic were busy running up and down the hill. The others noisily cheered them up.

Our ascent upon the sandy hill was tricky; we had to run very fast to the top so as to avoid being pulled back by the sands. As if the sand enjoyed the game,

it kept drawing us back, my more daring friends were able to beat it to it game and they were up in a jiffy but I looked for a more leveled road and later joined them.

The view was magnificent. The seven hills stood proud and gallant at the backdrop. From that point we could see the activities of the sand dredgers and the extent of damage they have done to the topography. The sandy hills bear the scars of the ruthless caterpillar they use in extracting the sand, and the air smelt of fresh earth. Gradually they keep taking from it till there will be none left for the future.

lovely view:the seven hills at the background

The lovely view: the confluence at the foreground

Sand dredgers at work

the scarred hill

The trek to towards the settlement got longer so we had to give it up. On our way back we caught a glimpse of the other settlement at the opposite hill so we made haste down the hill. Someone suggested we rolled down the hot sandy hill but we all declined.

After crossing the Iyama River we hiked an eroded hill. From there we saw the first settlement we abandoned. We wished we were patient enough, but there was nothing we could do. Some natives cultivated pumpkin leaves (Ugu) which radiated lushness despite the aridness of the place.

The eroded hill

An ugu farm

Farmers

Then we saw it! A freshly swept space with huts made with zinc and thatch arranged in a particular order. The sand glittered than ever, there was no drop of rubbish anywhere. We were blown away by the neatness and simplicity of these nomads. Even the chicken coops were spotless!

Chicken coop

Two Fulani ladies sat on a bamboo stool under a tree. One was plaiting the other’s hair. We stood at the entrance hesitant to enter. A voice from the other side floated to our direction.

“Wetin una want.” A shrill voice belonging to a slim woman called out. We were surprised that she understood pidgin. We ambled towards her direction. She crouched on the ground busily sorting cashew nuts.

Their spokesperson, am still amazed at her command of pidgin

“We want fura de nunu.” One of said to break the ice. “na two hundred naira but na only nunu dey.” She replied. We however ordered for it.

Some of the Fulani ladies came to join her then she sent one of them to get the nunu (yughort).

the errand lady

“Your house fine well well.” I said. “No heat too much.” She replied. I shot a cursory glance at the huts to see if they had proper ventilation but there were none. She said they have settled down here for ten years. I peeped around to see if there are cows around but there were none.

“ Our Cow dey Nsukka.” She answered. Soon a young Hausa girl came with a calabash containing the nunu. How delighted we were when it was handed down to us. It was simply delicious. I have never tasted yoghurt as thick and tasty as this so we ordered for more. My friend asked if we could camp there overnight in the future. She said no problem. We gave her crying son some money and we were astonished to hear him say thank you. We walk back crossing Iyama shallow waters and we sighted Cynthia still engrossed with her job.